Sweet dreams

Some melted butter to brush into the moulds

2dsstsp plain flour to line the moulds

1 Whisk the eggs and sugar in a large bowl until combined. Sieve the flour and baking powder into the egg mixture and whisk until smooth.

2 Melt the butter gently then mix a quarter to a third of the base mixture into the butter. Stir well to mix then incorporate this back into the base mix. Add the orange and thyme then mix everything together so it is smooth and well mixed. Transfer to a tub and refrigerate before using.

3 Brush madeleine moulds with melted butter then fill each mould with plain flour. Shake the mould so the flour coats the inside, tipping out any excess flour. Now spoon the mixture into each mould, so it comes three-quarters of the way up (they will rise a little while baking). Place in an oven set to 190C/gas mark 5 and cook for about 10 minutes or until just done in the middle. Remove from the oven and leave in the moulds until cool. Carefully tip them out and, when totally cooled, store in an airtight tub for up to 24 hours. To serve, warm the madeleines briefly in the oven and dust with icing sugar before serving. Other flavours you could try include cinnamon powder, ground five-spice, honey or ground nuts, especially hazelnuts or pistachios.

I am the unashamed, dedicated and enthusiastic owner of a sweet tooth. Pudding takes priority. It’s not only desserts, come to think of it, but sweet treats of all kinds. A full-blown pudding at home is a rarity if I’m honest, although it’s not unheard of for us to reach for some good-quality shop-bought ice-cream topped with homemade chocolate sauce for a quick fix.

If we have friends over, it’s a different story. Preparing a carefully planned dessert might be the usual option, but occasionally we take an alternative route, making a selection of petits fours rather like those we serve guests in the restaurant with their coffee. These small bites at the end of dinner are an irresistible highlight for me. In the restaurant there might be small dark chocolates, fruit jellies, fudge, or freshly baked madeleines.

At home, laid out on platters for guests to share, petits fours make a dazzling impact and satisfy any longing for pudding with a striking and distinctive alternative to a traditional dessert. Guests can try a little of everything if they wish and you get the chance to experiment. Sometimes I keep chocolates traditional, flavoured with fruit, nuts, coffee or champagne; occasionally I want unusual pairings, such as lavender or five-spice. And madeleines are wonderful with honey and pistachios or an autumnal hint of lemon and thyme.